Local Food Dispatch from Maryland: Black Raspberry Tarts in June, Wild Wineberries in July- Local farmers’ markets are hopping in summer, with a variety of berries abundantly offered.
The number of markets in Maryland increased from 78 in 2008 to 90 in 2009 according to Amy G. Crone, an agricultural marketing specialist for the state. With an upsurge of interest in canning in these times of economic frugality, folks are buying in quantity, cooking more at home, canning and freezing their food.
It feels so good to have the option to buy local food from farmers’ markets or Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) farms.
There’s also profound comfort in growing your own foods and appreciating how much sun, soil, water, and time goes into your summer months of salad, or into raspberries and wineberries that you grow or forage.
Growing berries of any kind is worth it. I picked my first bowl of black raspberries from a couple of plants my neighbor gave me three years ago. Raspberries produce fruit on second season canes, and last year’s drought resulted in just a few desiccated and shrunken raspberries with zero taste.
This year, I expected the same because of drought conditions from fall until March, but with a 17” record rainfall since April 1 in the Mid-Atlantic region, my berries and new canes are luscious and fat.
With more berries from my neighbor’s bushes, I have enough for tarts, which are so easy to make and bake. If I don’t want to heat up the house in summer, I use the little gas grill outside—which works fine for pizza, too.
Raspberries are an excellent source of fiber, manganese and vitamin C. They are also a good source of vitamin B2, folate, niacin, magnesium, potassium and copper.
In addition, they contain significant amounts of the well-researched phytonutrient, ellagic acid. Raspberries help prevent damage to cell membranes and other structures in the body by neutralizing free radicals.
Raspberry’s flavonoid content has antioxidant properties, as well as some antimicrobial ones, including the ability to prevent overgrowth of certain bacteria and fungi such as Candida albicans in the body.
Wild wineberries have even higher ellagic acid content than domestic raspberries, which contributes to a tangier taste with a slightly bitter undertaste.
Last weekend I hiked in Patapsco River Park to check on the ripening of the wineberries, an escaped Chinese raspberry brought here to cross with domestic varieties. Abundant in the woods of the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic region, especially along railroad tracks and coastal areas, the wineberry is stickier, with higher sugar content than a domestic raspberry.
They freeze well, though frozen berries seem to shed a lot more water when you use them for tarts or pies, so I usually add a little flour, corn starch, or tapioca for thickening. Wineberries will be ripe in Maryland for about 3 weeks in July, so I look forward to more tarts.
Pie crust, plus berries, a little sugar, lemon zest, and flour or corn starch equals berry tart. You can make a simple pie crust with flour, butter, cold water, and a little milk brushed on for glaze or binding dough. Or you can make vegan, gluten-free, sugar free, pie crust. For a sweet crust, I use a Sundays at Moosewood Restaurant recipe.
Last time, I was in a rush and used grocery store ready-to-use dough for a pie, and I swear the hydrogenated lard instantly added 2 pounds to my midriff, plus I kept thinking about all those free radicals gathering in my fat to plan a cancer party in 20 years, so I avoid store-bought dough or mix. Anyway, after you bake and cool your tarts, you can freeze them for later enjoyment.
Here’s a sweet pie crust recipe. If you use a food processor for baking and need exact directions, go to the Joy of Baking website.
BERRY TARTS
Pastry Crust
1 1/2 cups unbleached white flour
2 tablespoon sugar
pinch of salt
1/2 cup cold butter, cut into small pieces
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 egg yolk
1 – 2 tablespoons ice water
Filling
5 cups raspberries
1/3 cup sugar
lemon zest to taste
1 tablespoon cornstarch or flour for thickening
1 tablespoon water
In a bowl stir flour, sugar, plus pinch of salt. Drop the butter into the flour mix, a few pieces at a time. You can use a knife, large fork, pastry cutter or cold fingers to quickly and lightly mash together ingredients until the mixture becomes crumbly. Whisk 1 tablespoon ice water, lemon juice, and the egg yolk and sprinkle over mixture as you stir or mash until the dough just holds together when pinched. Don’t overwork the dough or you will turn it into rock. If dough is still too crumbly, add up to a tablespoon of ice water. With cold hands, divide and form into 4 balls. Cover bowl and refrigerate for an hour if possible, or overnight is even better.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove the pastry from the fridge. Lay wax paper on your countertop or cutting board and lightly flour the surface and a rolling pin (or a glass bottle). Roll out each dough ball into a 7 inch circle. Place the four pastry circles onto the baking sheet. Refrigerate pastry until you’re not ready to fill.
FILLING
In a large bowl, crush about a cup of raspberries and combine with 1 tablespoon water, sugar, lemon zest, and thickener. Stir in the rest of the berries.
Remove the pastry from the refrigerator and divide the filling among the four pastry circles, leaving about a 1 inch border around the outside edges of the pastry. Gently fold the edges of the pastry up and over the filling, leaving the center of the tart open.
Looks like a little pouch full of berries. Press the edges gently so the pastry sticks together. (Use a little milk to help it stick and/or brush some on for a glaze.) Once the tarts are assembled, you can cover and return to the refrigerator for about 15 - 30 minutes to chill, or pop them in a 400 degree F preheated oven on the center rack.
Bake for approximately 25 minutes or until the crust is golden brown and the juices are bubbling and start to run out from the center of the tart. Remove from oven and place on a wire rack to cool before serving.